After debarking at Kilronan on the largest of the Aran Islands, we had our choice of conveyances: bicycles, tour buses, or horsedrawn "traps" (four-person wagons behind a single horse).  Diane had done her homework, and led us immediately to the horses.  The best choice, by far!  Wind, scents, conversation... connection to the place was immediate in a way that none of the other modes would have offered.  Our trap jockey was Bernard (pronounced "BER-nurd"), and he actually conversed with us rather than reeling off a patter.  We found that sheep are no longer raised on the island (wool for the famous sweaters actually has to be imported), but cattle farming is the main source of income for island inhabitants (followed closely  by tourism.)